IN Toronto magazine

IN SPOT:

It’s officially called Bloordale Village, not Blansdowne or Upper Brockton or Lower Junction. The stretch between Dufferin and Landsdowne on Bloor might only consist of a couple of blocks, but it’s the gateway to all the good neighbourhoods in the west. Bloordale is supposed to be what everyone hoped would happen with Dundas after Ossington got burned out by 905ers and those dreaded Liberty Village people. Populated mostly by 25- to 40-year-old educated post-hipsters who enjoy vintage shopping, art galleries and buying up houses for cheap and renovating them into Wallpaper meets Restoration Hardware catalogue replicas. There are only a few key spots for food and drink, and Three Speed is the most diverse. Part bar (it’s busy until 2am every night), part restaurant, part hangout — I usually tell people it’s the Beaconsfield of Bloordale but with better service, better prices and better food.

The decor is an eclectic mix of shabby chic, mismatched chairs and cozy lighting. It’s not fancy. In the summer, the back patio is like a garden oasis with overhanging Christmas lights and a stone stove. On weekends they serve brunch, and they almost always run out of half the menu because it’s so slammed.

The menu is ever-changing and the specials are pretty extensive for a small casual place. The last time I was there I shared with a friend samosas, a potato leek soup, a trout tostada with homemade salsa, black beans and avocado, and delicious crab cakes with two pints and two Coronas and the bill was only $41.99. The portions are large enough that you’re actually eating a meal, but not so large that you can’t nibble on a few things. Entrees run about $11 and appetizers are $6 to $8. They also have a wide selection of beer (a west end standard) and wine on hand. The staff is friendly and you get the idea that if they weren’t serving, they’d be joining you. If you’re looking for a quiet night, go early, eat at the bar. It gets pretty busy around 9pm, so try to time it for first or last call to get the most out of it.

THREE SPEED 1163 Bloor St W. (647) 430-3834.